All information is for educational purposes only. These statements have not been evaluated by the FDA. Not intended to replace medical care or to diagnose, treat, prevent, mitigate or cure disease. The Clark Zapper and Zappicator have not been licensed by the FDA as a medical device, and can only be sold and used as an experimental device. Please be sure to read the books by Dr. Hulda Clark before using a zapper, plate zapper, food zappicator or Syncrometer™. Visit www.HuldaClark.com for more information. Thank you, FoodZappicator.com
Order Electronic Parts to Build Your Own - or -
Order A Food Zappicator
Excerpt from the book:
The Prevention of All Cancers © Copyright 2004 Hulda Regehr Clark, Ph.D., N.D.
The zappicator has two parts:
First we will build the 1 kHz zapper. We will build it on a breadboard to avoid the tangle of wires, clip leads, and the soldering of other methods.
The Breadboard Way
Instructions for making a 1 kHz zapper:
Parts List for Zappicator Circuit |
|
Item | Radio Shack Catalog Number |
9 volt battery | buy anywhere |
9 volt battery snap connector | 270-324= |
on-off toggle switch | 275-624A micro-mini toggle switch |
If not available, choose any toggle switch with holes in the terminals, OR Radio Shack 275-612 (or visit other electrical suppliers like www.PositiveOffset.com) | |
1 K Ohm resistor, brown-black-red-gold (2) | 271-312 (500 piece assortment) |
2.2 K Ohm resistor, red-red-red-gold | use one in the assortment |
4.4 K Ohm resistor * | use one 4.7K Ohm resistor from the assortment (yellow-violet-red-gold) |
144 K Ohm resistor | use two 270 K Ohm resistors from the assortment (red-violet-yellow-gold) |
39 K Ohm resistor (for Positive offset) | use one in the assortment |
low-current red LED 2 ma | 276-044 |
.0047 uF capacitor (2) | 272-130 (set of two) |
555 CMOS timer chip (TLC 555) | 276-1718 (you might want to buy a spare) |
alligator clip leads (2) | any electronics shop |
Or use Radio Shack 278-1156 (set of 10) | |
Breadboard | 276-173 |
Other supplies you may need: | |
2 copper pipes, 3/4 inch diameter, 4 inches long (if you use unit as a zapper) | plumbing store |
2 1/2" North Pole Speaker (4 Ohm) | electrical supply, (test speakers with compass to be sure N points to face) |
Long nose pliers, scotch tape, wire stripper |
*Editor's Note:The parts list above includes a 4.4K resistor (or 4.7K resistor). One will notice that this resistor is not used in the directions below for building the 1000 Hz unit. After mentioning this to Dr. Clark and Geoff, I was told that the 4.7K can replace the two 270K resistors to easily convert the device to an original 30,000 Hz zapper. This way one can easily switch between the 1000 Hz and 30,000 Hz zapper on one breadboard. To use the 4.7K resistor, simply pull out the two 270K resistors and replace with a 4.7K resistor so it connects pin 6 to pin 7 on the 555 CMOS Timer. If you are unsure about your circuit visit a local TV shop and have it tested on an oscilloscope, more testing information can be found below in the book excerpt:
Get electronic parts, north pole speakers & breadboard supplies at:
The total cost, as of 2002, was about $29.00 not including the copper pipes. The breadboard is a plastic pad with holes in it. If you look closely at the Radio Shack "Experimenter Socket," you can see the rows are lettered A through J, while the two outermost rows are X and Y. The columns are numbered 1 through 23. Any other breadboard will work, too.
The components connect by contacting a metal board below the holes. Here are some tips for the novice builder:
If the end of a wire is not bare, use a sharp knife to scrape off about a quarter-inch (1 cm) of the plastic insulation. When stripping wire, if you accidentally cut some of the wire strands off, cut them all off and start fresh. Hopefully you will succeed before you run out of wire!
If the wire is solid, great, but if it is stranded then twist it with your fingers to help keep the strands together.
When you push a wire (either solid or stranded) into a hole in the breadboard, you should feel it go in securely. If you tug the wire gently it should not come free. If you turn the breadboard upside down and shake it, nothing should fall out. Sometimes (especially with stranded wire which is flexible), the wire will bend instead of going in. Just straighten it out and try again. Hold the wire as close to the end as possible to prevent bending.
You don't need to know this, but if you are wondering how the rest of the breadboard works, holes A1 through E1 are connected internally, A2-E2 are connected to themselves, A3-E3, and so forth. Also F1-J1, F2-J2, etc. Finally, X1-X23 and Y1-Y23 as mentioned above. To connect different rows or across the center groove, jumpers are used, of different lengths, called breadboard wires.
The resistors, capacitors, and LED have long, bare wires. Don't let them touch each other; check each one before attaching the battery. You can cut them shorter if you wish. (You can buy wire cutters, but you can also just use household scissors although cutting wire may dull the scissors.)
The resistors and capacitors have no orientation so can go in any way. But the 555 chip does, it has a small circle or dot in one corner. Also, the LED has a flat side on its rim (hard to see but easy to feel) that tells you which way it goes.
If you bought the Radio Shack resistor assortment you may be wondering how you tell them apart! The answer is by the color to the bands on the cylinder. There is a chart on the back of the package, but to make it easy, the 1 K Ohm resistor is brown-black-red-gold; the 2.2 K Ohm resistor is red-red-red-gold; the 4.7 K Ohm resistor is yellow-violet-red-gold; the 39 K Ohm resistor is orange-white-orange-gold and the 270 K Ohm resistors are red-violet-yellow-gold. All the resistors in the assortment end with a gold band, so when reading the colors, start at the non-gold end.
The 555 timer chip is sensitive to static electricity. A good way to make sure you are not charged with static electricity is to touch a metal cold water pipe or faucet before handling the chip.
Although you are working with bare wires and electricity, there is little chance of harming yourself. During assembly the battery is not connected. Even while you are using the zapper, there are no voltages higher than the nine volts of the battery in this circuit. Still, take care not to come in contact with the components while the battery is connected in order not to make a spark or damage a component.
Plug in all the components as shown in the pictures. Attach the battery last. Do this very carefully to avoid accidentally contacting its terminals backwards. Cover one battery terminal with tape first. Then snap in the free terminal. Remove tape and snap in the other terminal.
If you have a voltmeter and wish to check the output you will find it measures approximately 4.5 V. That is because the zapper is switching between nine volts and zero volts about 1000 times per second. The average of nine and zero is 4.5 V.
Step-by Step Assembly
Troubleshooting
If the LED still doesn't light, it may be in backwards. Disconnect the battery, tape over one terminal, turn the LED around, and reconnect the battery. Being in backwards does not harm the LED. If it still does not light, or flickers, suspect the switch connections. Remove the switch or solder it.
If the battery gets hot, disconnect it immediately! Check that there are no bare wires touching each other. Double-check that your wiring matches the picture. You may have drained the battery a lot, so replace it with a new one.
If everything looks perfect, but the LED still doesn't light, you may have a defective component. That's why the Parts List advises getting a spare 555 timer chip. The 555 is the most likely component to fail. Disconnect the battery and try swapping chips (pay attention to which corner has the circle). None of the rest of the components are likely to fail, but you can try swapping them if you like. Make sure your battery is fresh. Use a battery tester.
Seeing the Output
An oscilloscope shows you a high-speed picture of how the voltage changes. You can actually "see" the zapper go from zero to nine volts and back repeatedly. And you can calculate the frequency to make sure it is about 1000 hertz (low frequency) or 30,000 hertz (regular zapper).
Oscilloscopes are expensive, so rather than buy one, it is better to ask you local television or VCR repair shop if they would use their oscilloscope to check you zapper quickly. Here is how the zapper output typically looks. When your zapper is turned on, the bottom flat lines of each pulse should be 1/4 volt above (more Positive) the zero line. To see the offset more clearly, change to .5 volts per division, see page 514.
Get these supplies:
Many loudspeakers on the market are South Pole. Be careful. Take your compass with you as you shop; the compass' North should be attracted to the face (see picture). A field strength of 10 to 20 gauss is preferred. This means the magnet on the speaker should be able to lift a loose chain of six paper clips. The current and watt ratings given for the speaker are not important. Some loudspeakers have "collars", or domes, or are encased, or shielded. Do not choose them. They do not work. The magnetic field is not necessarily stable either.
Dropping the speaker or overheating it could change the polarity. Check yours before use with a compass once a week.
Metal objects, like cans, placed on the zappicator will become magnetized by zappicating, showing a South Pole at the base and North Pole at the top. Numerous poles are induced, not necessarily stable. The food inside the can shows the same polarity as the part of the can that is touching it (not opposite). For better quality food, it would be ideal to empty the can first and zappicate in a non-metal container.
Glass jars should have their metal lids removed before zappicating. This gives all the food a north polarization like the polarity of the speaker. Otherwise the metal lid becomes polarized so that half the entire can becomes north and the other half south.
Foods and beverages become north polarized, although they may have started out south or without any polarity. This is because water is diamagnetic and takes on the same polarity as the field nearest to it instead of the opposite polarity as iron-like metals do.
The Hulda Clark Zappicator may be used to zap anyone or anything that cannot hold copper handles. That includes pets! Just set the North Pole Speaker Box under the pet bed, remove all metal collars, and zap while pets relax on their bed.
To order books or for more information visit:
www.HuldaClark.com
Get Zappicator Supplies at: ClarkZapper.com
Build A Clark Zapper FREE Online Instruction Video
Order electronic parts and North Pole Speakers at PositiveOffset.com
All information is for educational purposes only. These statements have not been evaluated by the FDA. Not intended to replace medical care or to diagnose, treat, prevent, mitigate or cure disease. The Clark Zapper and Zappicator have not been licensed by the FDA as a medical device, and can only be sold and used as an experimental device. Please be sure to read the books by Dr. Hulda Clark before using a zapper, plate zapper, food zappicator or Syncrometer™. Visit www.HuldaClark.com for more information. Thank you, FoodZappicator.com